Round watches may dominate the industry, but square timepieces have always held a unique allure. Their bold geometry, architectural lines, and unconventional presence on the wrist make them instant conversation starters. From avant-garde luxury pieces to timeless classics, square watches embody a blend of artistry and engineering that refuses to conform to tradition.
In this article, we’ll explore the most iconic square watches ever made—timepieces that not only challenged the norm but also defined eras of design.
Why Square Watches Captivate Collectors
While the circular form is practical for watchmaking, square watches offer a distinctive aesthetic that resonates with design lovers. They’re often associated with modernism, architecture, and innovation. The appeal lies in their ability to stand out without being flashy—they’re sophisticated statements for those who dare to be different.
The Icons of Square Watchmaking
1. Cartier Santos
The Cartier Santos is arguably the most famous square watch in history. Created in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, it was one of the first wristwatches designed for men and remains a cornerstone of Cartier’s legacy. Its clean lines, exposed screws, and Parisian elegance cement its place as a true icon.
2. TAG Heuer Monaco
The TAG Heuer Monaco broke barriers when it debuted in 1969 as one of the first automatic chronographs. Its square case, bold blue dial, and association with Steve McQueen in Le Mans elevated it to legendary status. To this day, the Monaco embodies motorsport cool and avant-garde style.
3. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Though technically rectangular, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso deserves a spot for its Art Deco geometry and ingenious reversible case, originally designed for polo players. Since its 1931 debut, it has become one of the most elegant non-round watches ever created.
4. Bell & Ross BR 01
Bell & Ross redefined modern tool watches with the BR 01, inspired by cockpit instruments. Its oversized square case and military aesthetic made it a cult favourite among aviation enthusiasts and watch lovers seeking bold, functional design.
5. Hermès Carré H
Hermès is best known for its leather goods, but the Carré H proves its horological credibility. Designed by architect Marc Berthier, the watch embraces minimalism and Parisian refinement, showcasing how square forms can embody both utility and art.
6. Rado Ceramica
The Rado Ceramica, introduced in 1990, brought sleek modernism and ceramic innovation to the square watch. Its monobloc case and integrated bracelet blurred the line between watch and sculpture, making it an icon of minimalistic industrial design.
7. Seiko Dolce & Exceline (Vintage Japanese Squares)
While not as globally renowned as Cartier or Heuer, Seiko’s Dolce and Exceline lines in the 1970s and ’80s produced striking square quartz watches that reflected Japan’s design-forward era. Today, they represent affordable entry points into square-watch collecting.
Square vs. Round: A Matter of Identity
Owning a square watch often says more about personality than practicality. While round watches are versatile and traditional, square watches project individuality. Collectors often gravitate toward them for their iconic heritage, bold silhouettes, and artistic statement.
Why Square Watches Are Coming Back
In recent years, square watches have experienced a resurgence. Fashion houses, luxury brands, and independent makers alike are embracing geometric shapes to offer alternatives to the classic round case. This renewed interest is driven by collectors seeking something fresh and bold in a market saturated with round designs.
Final Thoughts
From the pioneering Cartier Santos to the rebellious TAG Heuer Monaco and the architectural Hermès Carré H, square watches have carved their own niche in horological history. They may not outnumber round watches, but their timeless appeal and iconic designs ensure they’ll always stand apart.
For collectors, owning a square watch isn’t just about telling time—it’s about making a statement.
