For decades, the world of watches was steeped in tradition—and in many ways, gender stereotypes. Men’s watches were large, functional, and mechanical, while women’s watches were often marketed as jewelry first, timepieces second. Dainty cases, diamond accents, and delicate straps dominated the women’s category, reinforcing the idea that serious watchmaking was reserved for men.
But as horology evolved, so did the women who wore these watches. From icons of style to modern collectors, women began reaching for timepieces that broke conventions, choosing bold designs, mechanical movements, and historically “masculine” styles. Today, women’s watches aren’t confined by outdated gender rules. Instead, they celebrate individuality, empowerment, and artistry.
Let’s take a closer look at some of the women’s watches that challenged expectations—and in doing so, changed the watch industry.
Cartier Santos-Dumont: The First Wristwatch Was Made for a Man… and Adopted by Women
The history of wristwatches itself defies gender norms. While men wore pocket watches well into the early 20th century, women were among the first to adopt wristwatches as fashionable accessories. Interestingly, one of the first true wristwatches—the Cartier Santos-Dumont, created in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont—quickly found favour with women.
By the 1920s, women were confidently wearing what was initially marketed as a man’s tool watch, proving that the boundary between masculine utility and feminine elegance was always more fluid than the industry wanted to admit.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Function Meets Feminine Style
When Rolex launched the Oyster Perpetual in the 1920s, it was marketed as the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. But what’s often overlooked is that women were central to its early story. In 1927, swimmer Mercedes Gleitze wore a Rolex Oyster across the English Channel, showcasing its durability in grueling conditions.
In an era when women were expected to wear fragile cocktail watches, Gleitze’s feat sent a powerful message: a woman could wear a watch that was every bit as functional and rugged as a man’s—and look stylish doing it.
Patek Philippe Twenty~4: Redefining the Women’s Watch
Introduced in 1999, the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 was a game-changer. Unlike the ornamental watches that dominated the women’s segment, the Twenty~4 was designed to be a serious mechanical timepiece for women, combining elegance with technical excellence.
While Patek Philippe was long revered among male collectors, the Twenty~4 demonstrated that women deserved more than diamond-studded afterthoughts—they deserved watches built with the same level of craftsmanship and sophistication.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: Women Claim the Sports Icon
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta in 1972, is one of the most iconic sports watches of all time. Originally intended for men, its bold octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet were a far cry from the dainty timepieces marketed to women at the time.
Yet, women soon began adopting the Royal Oak as their own. From business leaders to celebrities, the Royal Oak became a symbol of power, independence, and modern femininity. The Royal Oak Offshore Lady models, released in the 1990s, further blurred the lines, offering women the same bold aesthetics and mechanical prowess as men’s editions.
Panthère de Cartier: Jewelry Watch, Reimagined
Cartier has always walked the line between jewelry and watchmaking, but the Panthère de Cartier, introduced in the 1980s, became more than a sparkling accessory. Its sleek bracelet design and versatile styling made it a fashion-forward statement piece for women who wanted more than just diamonds on their wrist.
While marketed as a jewelry watch, the Panthère’s popularity among professional women gave it a new role: a timepiece that symbolised confidence, style, and autonomy in the workplace.
Women Wearing “Men’s” Watches: A Modern Revolution
Perhaps the most powerful gender-breaking trend in modern horology is not a single model, but a movement. Increasingly, women are choosing watches traditionally labeled as “men’s” for their size, design, and mechanics.
Celebrities like Rihanna sporting a Rolex Day-Date, or Charlize Theron wearing a Chopard L.U.C., prove that a bold 40mm or 41mm case isn’t just for men. In fact, the rise of women wearing so-called men’s watches has forced brands to rethink gendered marketing altogether.
Why These Watches Matter
These watches broke gender norms not just by their design, but by their cultural significance:
- They proved that women want substance as much as style, embracing mechanical movements and sport-inspired designs.
- They blurred the rigid categories of “his” and “hers,” allowing watch lovers to choose what speaks to them, not what’s dictated by tradition.
- They redefined what it means for a watch to be feminine: it doesn’t have to be small or diamond-studded—it just has to reflect the wearer’s identity.
Final Thoughts
The story of women’s watches is no longer about fitting into a mold—it’s about breaking it. From the Cartier Santos to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 to the bold Royal Oak, these timepieces remind us that watches are not bound by gender—they’re bound by passion, design, and craftsmanship.
Today, more than ever, the line between men’s and women’s watches continues to fade. And that’s a good thing. After all, the best watch isn’t made for men or women—it’s made for the person who chooses to wear it.
