The 20th century was a transformative era for watchmaking. It saw the wristwatch rise from a novelty to an essential part of daily life, evolving alongside world events, technological innovations, and cultural shifts. From military necessities to luxury icons, the century gave birth to some of the most influential timepieces ever made. These watches didn’t just tell the time—they shaped horological history and defined what it meant to wear a watch.
In this article, we’ll journey through the most important watches of the 20th century, highlighting how they became milestones in design, engineering, and cultural impact.
1. Cartier Santos (1904) – The First Men’s Wristwatch
At the dawn of the century, pocket watches still reigned supreme. That changed when Louis Cartier created the Cartier Santos for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. Its square case, exposed screws, and leather strap made it not only practical for flying but also stylish. This was the moment the wristwatch became a masculine accessory, paving the way for all that followed.
2. Rolex Oyster (1926) – The Birth of the Waterproof Watch
When Rolex unveiled the Oyster in 1926, it marked the beginning of the modern tool watch. With its screw-down crown and hermetically sealed case, the Oyster proved that watches could withstand everyday wear and water exposure. Famously worn by Mercedes Gleitze during her English Channel swim in 1927, the Oyster became synonymous with durability.
3. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (1931) – Art Deco Elegance
In the early 1930s, polo players needed a watch that could endure the rigours of the sport. Enter the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, with its ingenious reversible case designed to protect the dial from impacts. Beyond utility, its clean Art Deco lines gave it timeless sophistication, making it a watch that transcended sport to become a fashion classic.
4. Omega Speedmaster (1957) – From Racetracks to the Moon
Introduced in 1957, the Omega Speedmaster was originally designed for motorsports. But it became legendary when NASA selected it for the Apollo missions. Worn during the first moon landing in 1969, the Speedmaster cemented its place as the “Moonwatch.” Few timepieces carry such a powerful story of human achievement.
5. TAG Heuer Monaco (1969) – The Square Chronograph
The TAG Heuer Monaco broke all the rules when it debuted in 1969. As one of the first automatic chronographs, it stood out with its square case and bold design. When Steve McQueen wore it in the film Le Mans, the Monaco became immortalised as the watch of motorsport cool.
6. Seiko Astron (1969) – The Quartz Revolution
While the Swiss dominated mechanical watchmaking, Seiko shocked the industry in 1969 with the release of the Astron, the world’s first quartz wristwatch. Accurate, affordable, and mass-producible, quartz technology disrupted the traditional industry and democratised timekeeping. The “Quartz Crisis” that followed reshaped the entire landscape of watchmaking.
7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972) – The Luxury Sports Watch
When Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak in 1972, designed by Gérald Genta, it was unlike anything the world had seen. Its steel case, integrated bracelet, and octagonal bezel blurred the lines between sport and luxury. Initially controversial, the Royal Oak eventually redefined what high-end watchmaking could be—and inspired countless imitators.
8. Swatch (1983) – Saving Swiss Watchmaking
By the 1980s, the Swiss industry was in crisis due to quartz competition. Enter Swatch, the colourful, affordable, and fun brand that revitalised Swiss watchmaking. Its playful designs and clever marketing turned watches into fashion accessories once again, proving that Swiss craftsmanship could adapt to the times.
9. Casio G-Shock (1983) – The Indestructible Icon
In the same year, Casio introduced the G-Shock, a watch designed to be virtually unbreakable. Shock-resistant, water-resistant, and packed with digital features, the G-Shock became a global phenomenon. From soldiers to streetwear enthusiasts, it represented toughness and cultural relevance across generations.
The Watches That Defined a Century
Each of these timepieces reflects a turning point in horological history. The 20th century gave us:
- The Cartier Santos, proving wristwatches could be fashionable and functional.
- The Rolex Oyster, which set the standard for durability.
- The Omega Speedmaster, a watch that literally reached the stars.
- The Seiko Astron, which revolutionised accuracy and affordability.
- The Royal Oak and Swatch, which reshaped luxury and accessibility.
- The G-Shock, which embodied resilience and innovation.
Together, they tell the story of how watches evolved from practical instruments to cultural icons.
Final Thoughts
The 20th century was the golden age of watchmaking, blending innovation, design, and cultural influence like no other period. The watches that defined it are more than timekeepers—they are milestones of human progress, symbols of style, and pieces of history worn on the wrist.
For collectors today, owning one of these icons is like holding a piece of the 20th century itself.
