Your ultimate deep-dive into every AP collection — from the iconic Royal Oak to haute-horlogerie masterpieces.
Few watchmakers occupy the cultural, technical, and artistic space that Audemars Piguet does. Founded in 1875 in Le Brassus by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, AP remains one of the rare family-owned brands in Swiss haute horlogerie. But what truly sets the brand apart is its ability to merge engineering innovation, avant-garde design, and a fearless creative spirit.
For decades, AP has been known not only for refining classic complications, but also for disrupting the industry with bold aesthetic choices that others later follow. Whether you’re a seasoned collector, an aspiring AP owner, or a curious enthusiast, this guide covers every major Audemars Piguet collection and sub-line in detail.
1. Royal Oak — The Icon That Changed Watchmaking Forever
The Royal Oak is arguably the most influential luxury watch ever made. Launched in 1972 and designed by Gerald Genta, it ushered in the era of the luxury stainless-steel sports watch, priced higher than many gold pieces at the time.
With its octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, visible screws, and blue “Tapisserie” dial, the Royal Oak broke every rule — and saved the brand during the quartz crisis.
Today, the Royal Oak family spans simple three-hand models, chronographs, perpetual calendars, tourbillons, flying tourbillons, and openworked skeleton versions. case sizes range from 33mm to 43mm, making it suitable for almost any wrist.
Collectors love its razor-sharp finishing, sporty-elegant versatility, and near-mythical status in the watch world. Many consider the Royal Oak the gold standard for contemporary luxury design.
2. Royal Oak Offshore — Bigger, Bolder, More Extreme
If the Royal Oak is the rebel, the Royal Oak Offshore is the heavyweight gladiator. Introduced in 1993, the Offshore amplified everything: the size, the thickness, the bezel, the pushers, the wrist presence. What began as a controversial experiment became a cult classic.
Initially known as “The Beast,” early Offshores pioneered the use of rubber straps and aggressive colour combinations. Later models pushed materials further with ceramic, forged carbon, titanium, and sapphire constructions.
The Offshore line is now a broad universe of chronographs, divers, music-inspired editions, and limited collaborations. If the regular Royal Oak is “quiet luxury,” the Offshore is unapologetically loud and muscular — perfect for collectors who want a statement piece with serious mechanical credibility.
3. Royal Oak Concept — Audemars Piguet’s Experimental Playground
In 2002, AP celebrated the Royal Oak’s 30th anniversary by introducing the Royal Oak Concept, a futuristic laboratory for pushing horology into new territory. These watches aren’t just timepieces — they’re mechanical sculptures.
The Concept line is known for exotic shapes, ultra-technical movements, openworked dials, and complications such as:
- Super-light alloys
- Supersonnerie minute repeaters
- Flying tourbillons
- Futuristic regulator displays
- Incredibly advanced escapements
Materials include titanium, ceramic, sapphire, and even special alloys engineered in partnership with universities. Concept pieces represent the bleeding edge of AP innovation — the place where the brand experiments with ideas that later influence mainstream collections.
4. Code 11.59 — The Modern Dress Watch Reimagined
Launched in 2019, Code 11.59 initially received mixed reactions, but AP never intended it to be conventional. It’s a watch family defined by architectural case construction, modernity, and complex finishing techniques that rival AP’s most iconic pieces.
The most interesting part of the Code 11.59 is its structure: a round bezel, an octagonal mid-case, and ergonomic curved lugs. AP uses cutting-edge in-house calibres, including chronographs, perpetual calendars, flying tourbillons, and some of the brand’s most advanced repeaters.
Dials have evolved rapidly, with sunburst colors, smoked designs, and hand-crafted textures that have transformed public perception. Today, Code 11.59 is recognised as a bold, contemporary vision of what a luxury dress watch can be.
5. Millenary — Artistic, Asymmetrical, and Audemars Piguet at Its Most Poetic
The Millenary collection is AP’s artistic, off-centered masterpiece. Launched in the late 1990s, the oval case shape, visible balance wheel, and layered dials give the Millenary a distinctly architectural presence.
These watches highlight AP’s mastery of hand-finishing, blending Roman numerals, depth, and open-worked elements. The Millenary line is popular among collectors who appreciate art-driven watchmaking instead of traditional symmetry.
Though less mainstream than the Royal Oak families, the Millenary is treasured for its craftsmanship, femininity in many models, and horological charm.
6. Jules Audemars — Classicism and Pure Haute Horlogerie
Named after one of AP’s founders, the Jules Audemars collection represents the brand’s dedication to classical watchmaking: round cases, elegant proportions, and traditional haute horlogerie finishes.
Historically, the line included perpetual calendars, skeletonised tourbillons, minute repeaters, and ultra-thin models. While AP has streamlined modern production, vintage Jules Audemars models remain sought after due to their refinement and understated luxury. They showcase the brand’s pre-Royal-Oak heritage — a side often overshadowed but deeply important.
7. Haute Complications — Where AP Proves Its Mastery
Across multiple collections, Audemars Piguet continues to create high watchmaking wonders:
- Grande Complications combining a perpetual calendar, chronograph, and minute repeater.
- Supersonnerie Repeaters, among the most acoustically advanced chiming watches ever made.
- Skeletonised masterpieces with hand-finished bridges and breathtaking transparency.
These pieces are crafted in extremely small numbers and showcase the highest levels of AP’s artistry.
How to Choose the Right Audemars Piguet for You
Choosing an AP depends on your personality and lifestyle:
If you want the icon → Royal Oak
If you want bold, rugged presence → Royal Oak Offshore
If you want futuristic innovation → Royal Oak Concept
If you want modern, refined dress luxury → Code 11.59
If you want artistic asymmetry → Millenary
If you appreciate classical watchmaking → Jules Audemars
AP’s range covers virtually every style of high-end watchmaking, but always with a distinctive design DNA that’s instantly recognizable.
Final Thoughts: Why Audemars Piguet Stands Alone
Audemars Piguet is not merely a luxury brand — it’s a cultural icon. From Gerald Genta’s 1972 revolution to today’s avant-garde masterpieces, AP continually challenges norms, pushes technical frontiers, and maintains a rebellious artistic spirit.
Understanding every AP collection helps you make an informed choice — one aligned not only with your wrist, but with your identity as a collector. Whether you gravitate toward the timeless beauty of the Royal Oak or the bold creativity of the Concept line, Audemars Piguet offers a world that few watchmakers can match.
